Contrary to general belief, Gasherbrum doesn’t mean a “shining wall.” The name comes from the Balti words rgasha, which means beautiful, and Brum means mountain.
There are six peaks in the cluster Gasherbrum: Gasherbrum 2 (8035 meters/26,361ft), with a summit pyramid, the second-highest peak among the Gasherbrum Peaks.
Gasherbrum II (also known as K4) is the 13th highest mountain on Earth, located in Pakistan and China. Gasherbrum II is the third highest peak of the Gasherbrum massif, located in the Karakoram Range.
Climbers have described it as an impressive but achievable peak, much like Cho Oyubut, with a gradual walk up the Baltoro Glacier to its B.C. which is said to be the best trek in the world. Its climb provides not too hard and a perfect mountaineering experience for Himalaya beginners.
G II stands in the majestic neighborhood of Karakoram giants like and K2 in a close line-up of the world’s highest peaks in the arena of Concordia that has no parallel in the world.
In 1889-1929 an international expedition headed by the Swiss G.O. Dyhrenfurth studied possible ways to top the Gasherbrum II and got to 6250m on the south flank. On July 8, 1956, the first ascent via the southwest spur was made by an Austrian expedition headed by F. MoraveFritz Moravec and Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart from a bivouac at 7700m via the east trigger to the summit on 7th.
At the head of the Baltoro Glacier, at the end of one of the world’s most famed mountain walks, lies the most massive and most remote concentration of high peaks on the planet.
Gasherbrum II is part of the more excellent Gasherbrum group of 5 flowers, 2 of which soar over 8000m, and is the world’s 13th highest mountain. She is roundly held as one of the most straightforward and accessible of the fourteen, and climbers on her usual route can enjoy reasonable summit rates inclement weather if sufficiently resourced and prepared. She is, of course, an 8000er, and as such, repels many dozens of climbers every year.
In 2004 some 38 climbers from multiple nationalities reached her summit after a small weather window opened near the end of the season.
The South West Ridge’s snowy presents considerable difficulties on ice and snow mixed faces ridges once you are above the most complex glacial plateau after negotiating the heavily crevassed Gasherbrum Glacier.
It is a steep way up at some sections as we continue climbing on a series of ridges and reach a platform where camp two is generally set up around 6400m.
From here, we climb a couple of icy pitches and then up the face going steeper before you reach the site of C3 at 7490m. After three easy pitches from there, get to a diagonal way across the front from where a traverse leads the base of the summit pyramid on theEast Ridge.
The climb from there is straight on a wide-open snowy face with glorious surroundings but a few steep sections before you reach the narrow summit ridge.
The route of choice is the S.W. ridge. A mostly defined spur that is relatively free of objective dangers. Nonetheless, history shows more than a few climbers have perished on this route due to these causes.
If you want to climb G2, you will need outstanding stamina, a fierce determination, and an ability to deal with ‘expedition downtime’ – boredom, apathy, lethargy, and cold lonely nights on the glacier.
Name Gasherbrum II Expedition
Elevation: 8035 Mt
Mountain Range: Karakoram
First climbed on July 8, 1956, by Fritz Moravec, Austrian expedition
Duration: 64 Days
Best Time: May-August
Day 01: Arrival Islamabad
On arrival, meet and assist at the airport and then transfer to the hotel. Overnight stay in the hotel in Islamabad.
Day 02: Islamabad – Skardu (By Air)
Early morning flight to Skardu (flights are subject to weather); if unable to fly, we will depart for Skardu by road with an overnight stay at Chilas. Overnight stay in the hotel at Skardu.
Day 03: Skardu
In case of flight has operated, we will go for a sightseeing tour of Skardu, and in case of no flight, the day will be used for overland travel from Chilas to Skardu (total drive is 22 – 24 hrs from Islamabad to Skardu). Overnight stay in the hotel at Skardu.
Day 04: Skardu
The day is to finalize the expedition arrangements. Overnight stay in the hotel at Skardu.
Day 05: Skardu – Askole
After breakfast, we will embark jeeps for a full day ride on a winding jeep trail to Askole – The last inhabitance on our way to the Great Glaciers. (Tent)
Day 06: Askole – Korophone
Today we will leave the last inhabited village of Askole. We will rely on our local team for the remaining portion of our journey, who will carry our food and equipment and sustain our expedition. (Tent)
Day 07: Korophone – Jhula
Trek to the Dumurdo river cross at Jhula (Jhula means wire Rope-Bridge supported by a wooden basket); nowadays wooden bridge has been built to cross it. (Tent)
Day 08: Jhula – Paiju
We will resume trek along the Braldu River to a green oasis under the shadows of Paiju Peak 6611 M. (Tent)
Day 09: Paiju – Rest Day
Rest & acclimatization day at Paiju. (Tent)
Day 10: Paiju – Urdukas
Begin trek after an early breakfast. (Tent)
Day 11: Urdukas – Goro
A long walk on the icy Baltoro Glacier. (Tent)
Day 12: Goro – Concordia
After an early breakfast, we will resume a long walk on the Baltoro Glacier to a point called Concordia – a huge junction of Baltoro, Abruzzi & Godwin Austin Glaciers at 4000 meters. (Tent)
Day 13: Concordia – Gasherbrum BC
Altitude: 4650m (Tent)
Day 14-58: Scaling the Summit
Day 59: Trek down to Hushe
Day 60: Hushe – Skardu
After breakfast, we will embark on jeeps for a full day ride on Skardu’s winding jeep road. Upon arrival, transfer to the hotel and check-in. Overnight stay in the hotel at Skardu.
Day 61: Skardu – Chilas
Early morning drive for Chilas. On arrival, transfer to hotel and check-in. Overnight stay in the hotel at Chilas.
Day 62: Chilas – Islamabad
After breakfast, we will depart for Islamabad, en-route visit rock drawings at Shatial. On arrival, transfer to hotel, overnight stay in hotel at Islamabad.
Day 63: Islamabad
We will proceed for debriefing at the Ministry of Tourism in Islamabad. Afternoon, we will go on the city tour of Islamabad and Rawalpindi. Overnight stay in the hotel in Islamabad.
Day 64: Islamabad – Flight out
Transfer to the airport for flight back home—end of our services.
Please Note Skardu/ Gilgit – Islamabad – Skardu/ Gilgit flights are subject to weather and backlog. In case of flight cancellation, we will travel by road, and one night in Islamabad will be adjusted in overland travel.
- Liaison with Ministry of Tourism in Islamabad for climbing permit process, providing the appointed Liaison officer’s measurements for his prescribed kit.
- Process of import/export permit from the ministry of tourism.
- Clearance of cargo before arrival of the team and its storage.
- Assistance upon arrival/departure.
- Official Briefing/Debriefing.
- Hotel accommodation in Rawalpindi/Islamabad, Chilas.
- All meals during trek and at B.C. as per itinerary.
- Porterage of 75 kg per person of expedition equipment and high altitude food etc. to the B.C. and 50 kg per person on return from B.C.
- Road transfers between airport/hotel and within the city as per itinerary.
- Sleeping tents, mattresses, mess, kitchen, and toilet tent with tables/field stools and camping ground fees.
- Kitchen equipment, crockery, cutlery, fuel, and related community gear.
- Wages and basic kit of guide, sirdar, cook, and assistant(s).
- Insurance of our field staff and low altitude porters (except helicopter rescue).
- Porterage at airports, hotels, toll taxes, and parking fees, etc.
- Mail handling/forwarding to B.C./overseas except for postage charges.
- Reconfirmation of air tickets.
- Hiring of HAPs, mail runner(s), and any other crew as per requirement. (Wages and kit to be arranged by the team).
Services not Included:
- International & domestic airfare, airport tax, excess baggage charges.
- High altitude porters/any crew above B.C.
Helicopter emergency rescue fees (refundable if not use, it is now US$15000/-
- High altitude tents, sleeping bags, personal and climbing equipment of any kind beyond base camp, including high altitude food and oxygen.
- Medications, ground evacuations, and helicopter rescue charges of any kind.
- Room services, laundry, beverages, phone/communication bills, and items of personal nature.
- Insurance liability of member (s) and other under force majeure conditions.
- Climbing Permit, Pollution and Environmental fee, or any other payment required to be paid to Pakistan’s Government.
- Clearing agent charges.
Members any climbing gears
- Member personal insurance
- High altitude tent