OVERVIEW of Gasherbrum I Expedition Pakistan
Gasherbrum I is a very beautiful peak. It is also known as K5, Hiden Peak, and Shining Wall. Among the six Gasherburn Peaks in the Karakoram range Gasherbrum I is the highest. Gasherbrum I Expedition Pakistan is one of the favorites amongst climbers to learn the next giants. The Americans were the first to reach the Autumn of 1958. It was first climbed by A. Kaufman and P. Schoening in 1958.
Although the French had attempted as early as 1956, Hidden Peak was also the first eight-thousand-meter peak to be climbed in Alpine style. The trek to the Base Camp starts at Skardu town through Shigar valley across the Baltoro glacier. The trek to the Base Camp starts at Skardu town through Shigar valley across the Baltoro glacier.
The first route of Gasherbrum I (G-I / Hidden Peak / K5) has remained closed since the mid-80s due to the Siachen conflict. It is now usually climbed from its most prominent route from the plateau on Gasherbrum Glacier. The more popular route in recent years has been the Gasherbrum La up to the Japanese Culvert or the routes along the north ridge.
The other alternate route for Gasherbrum I Expedition Pakistan is the west ridge. Which is technically less demanding but takes a long time due to the long distance between Camp I and the summit.
Despite technical difficulties in the lower part, the snow face high up sometimes poses the danger of avalanche after new snowfalls. The lowest footage of the Karakoram 8000ers is Gasherbrum – II. At 8035m. Climbers have described it as an impressive but achievable peak. Much like Cho Oyu in this respect but with a walk to its BC that is said to be the best trek in the world. Its climb provides a perfect mountaineering experience.
G2 stands in the majestic neighborhood of K2 in a close line-up. It lies next line to the world’s highest peaks in the titanic amphitheater of Concordia. That has no parallel in the world. Gasherbrum I Expedition Pakistan has the snow face of the South-West Ridge. It also presents considerable difficulties on ice and snow-mixed faces and ridges. Once you are above the plateau after negotiating the heavily crevassed Gasherbrum Glacier. It is a steep way up at some sections.
Adventure in Karakourm is a Dream
From above the snowy Banana Ridge, you continue Gasherbrum I Expedition Pakistan on a series of ridges. So, you can reach a platform where camp 2 is generally set up. From here you climb a couple of ice pitches. Then up the face going steeper before you reach the shoulder, the site of C3 at 7490m. After three pitches from there, it is a diagonal way across the face. From where a traverse leads to the base of the summit pyramid on the East Ridge. The climb from there is straight on a wide-open expanse with glorious surroundings. But a few steep sections before you reach the narrow summit ridge.
Name Of Peak Gashabrum l
Ranked 11th(4th in Pakistan)
Base Camp Height 4800-M
Range Karakorum-Baltoro Skardu
Duration 50 Days
Best Period June to August
Day 1: Arrival Islamabad
Arrival at Islamabad International Airport and transfer to the hotel. In the evening briefing at Alpine Club of Pakistan. Overnight in the hotel.
Day 2: Islamabad to Chilas
Departure for Chilas via Babusar Top, Kaghan Valley Check-in hotel at Chilas.
Day 3: Chilas to Skardu
Arrival in Skardu. Total drive time from Islamabad to Skardu is 22-24 hours. Overnight in the hotel
Day 4: SKARDU
The final arrangement of the Expedition. Overnight in the hotel.
Day 5: Skardu to askole
Full day drives with Jeeps on a winding trail to Askole, through a wild, impressive landscape and rugged gorges. Overnight stay in tents in the small village of Askole. Distance 96 km Drive 07-08 hrs Altitude 3050 m
Day 6: Askole to karpophong
After an early breakfast leaves the last inhabited village, the remaining portion of our journey, we rely on our porters who carry our food and equipment and sustain our Expedition. Overnight in tents. Walk 03 – 04 hrs. Grade: Easy Altitude: 3100 M
Day 7: karpophong to Jhula
Trek to the Dumurdo river cross at Jhula. The campsite has shower cabins, running water, toilets, and camp platforms. Overnight in the tents. Walk: 03-04 hrs Grade: Strenuous Altitude: 3150 M
Day 8: Jhula to paju
Trek along the Braldu River to a green Oasis under the shadows of Paiju Peak 6611 M. Overnight in tents. Walk 05-06 hrs Grade: Moderate Altitude: 3480 M.
Day 9: Paju camp
Traditional rest day for acclimatization at Paiju camp. Paju is a Balti word, which means “SALT.” Overnight in tents.
Day 10: Paju camp to Urdukas
Trekking starts towards Urdukas after an early breakfast. Traverse the junction of Paiju – Baltoro Glaciers through crevasses & lunch below Liligo, the traditional camp under the muddy cliffs with fine views of rock spires. Urdukas are offering splendid views of the Trango, Uli Biaho & Bial Groups. Overnight in tents. Walk: 06-07 hrs Grade: Moderate Altitude: 4130 M
Day 11: Urdukas to Goro
A long walk on the icy Baltoro Glacier, with Magnificent views of Muztagh, Mitre & Gasherbrum IV. Overnight in tents. Walk 06-07 hrs Grade: Strenuous Altitude: 4500 M.
Day 12: Goro to Concordia
Trek on the Baltoro Glacier to Concordia. The climax of the Trek is the spectacular conjunction of the Godwin-Austin, and Baltoro Glaciers called Concordia, lying at the heart of the most heavily glaciated region outside the Polar areas within a radius of 19 km stand 41 peaks over 6500 meters. Including 04 mountains above 8000 M., This is the center of the densest concentration of the lofty mountains on Earth. Overnight in tents. Walk: 05 – 06 hrs Grade: strenuous Altitude: 4720 M
Day 13: Concordia to Gashabrum Base Camp
Gasherbrum is an easy 3 to 4 hours walk on the upper Baltoro glacier. Overnight in tents
Day 14: Resty Day In BAse camp
The final arrangement of the Expedition.
Day 15: CLIMBING
Days 15 – 42 Climbing Climbing start towards Summit. The length of the Climbing period depends on the weather, fitness, and experience of the climber.
Day 43: Gashabrum base camp to Ali camp
Early morning walk down to Concordia and onwards to Ali camp walking on Vigne glacier, try to get over the rivers early. Overnight in tents
Day 44: Ali camp to Gondogoro la to khuspang
To avoid the risk of rockfalls on the descent on the Hushe side, we start very early, around 2 am. After an early breakfast, we will wear crampons and harnesses and set off, roped together onto the West Vigne Glacier towards the foot of the Gondogoro-La pass. After 3-4 hours of steep and strenuous ascent, we reach the top to be rewarded with stunning views of K2, Broad Peak, and the Gasherbrum. Then descend towards to Hushe valley in another territory of Baltistan. Overnight in tents. Walk: 10 – 12 hrs Grade: Strenuous Altitude: 5700 M
Day 45: Khuspang to saicho
There is one tricky crevasse section to be crossed just after Khuspang. Still, after that, the remaining part of glacier crossing is relatively simple to the camping site to reach Dalsangpa, meaning ‘field of flowers,’ lives up to its name. The beautiful flowers and fauna of Hushe Valley make you feel fresh and energized. After Laila Peak Base Camp, an excellent trek to Shaicho, a very green campsite just by Hushe River. If the weather clear, you can see Masherbrum Peak from the Hushe side. Walk: 06-07 hrs Grade: Moderate
Day 46: Saicho to hushe
This is the last day of the Trek following Hushe River along with the greens. Start your easy Trek after an early breakfast down towards beautiful Hushe village. Overnight in tents
Day 47: Hushe to Skardu
After breakfast, drive for a full day ride on a winding jeep trail to Skardu. Upon arrival, transfer to the hotel.
Day 48: skardu to Islamabad
If unable due to lousy weather same day drive to Kaghan Valley via Babusar Top, flight to Islamabad. Overnight in the hotel.
Day 49: Chilas to Islamabad
Early morning drive to Islamabad. Overnight in the Hotel.
Day 50: Islamabad – Debriefing
Debriefing at Alpine Club of Pakistan Islamabad & Transfer to Islamabad International Airport for your onward destination. End of our Services. Thank YOU!
- Liaison with Ministry of Tourism in Islamabad for climbing permit process, providing the appointed Liaison officer’s measurements for his prescribed kit.
- Process of import/export permit from the ministry of tourism.
- Clearance of cargo before arrival of the team and its storage.
- Assistance upon arrival/departure.
- Official Briefing/Debriefing.
- Hotel accommodation in Rawalpindi/Islamabad, Chilas.
- All meals during Trek and at B.C. as per itinerary.
- Porterage of 75 kg per person of expedition equipment and high altitude food etc. to the B.C. and 50 kg per person on return from B.C.
- Road transfers between airport/hotel and within the city as per itinerary.
- Sleeping tents, mattresses, mess, kitchen, and toilet tent with tables/field stools and camping ground fees.
- Kitchen equipment, crockery, cutlery, fuel, and related community gear.
- Wages and basic kit of guide, sirdar, cook, and assistant(s).
- Insurance of our field staff and low altitude porters (except helicopter rescue).
- Porterage at airports, hotels, toll taxes, and parking fees, etc.
- Mail handling/forwarding to B.C./overseas except for postage charges.
- Reconfirmation of air tickets.
- Hiring of HAPs, mail runner(s), and any other crew as per requirement. (Wages and kit to be arranged by the team).
Services not Included:
- International & domestic airfare, airport tax, excess baggage charges.
- High altitude porters/any crew above B.C.
Helicopter emergency rescue fees (refundable if not use, it is now US$15000/-
- High altitude tents, sleeping bags, personal and climbing equipment of any kind beyond base camp, including high altitude food and oxygen.
- Medications, ground evacuations, and helicopter rescue charges of any kind.
- Room services, laundry, beverages, phone/communication bills, and items of personal nature.
- Insurance liability of member (s) and other under force majeure conditions.
- Climbing Permit, Pollution and Environmental fee, or any other payment required to be paid to Pakistan’s Government.
- Clearing agent charges.
Members any climbing gears
- Member personal insurance
- High altitude tent
- High altitude food
- High altitude porter
- Any other service not mentioned in the above list